Smoked chicken birria tacos with a big red dunk

The cook

1. 01

   Step 1SORT THE FIRE

   Light a kettle with a two-zone charcoal setup, or fit your kamado with a heat deflector. Settle the covered BBQ at 160°C. Add one small chunk of oak to the lit charcoal. Keep the cooking area indirect, with enough room for a 5–6 litre Dutch oven later.

2. 02

   Step 2GET SOME SMOKE ON

   Pat the thighs dry. Coat with the oil, salt, cumin and pepper from the chicken group. Spread over the indirect side and smoke with the lid closed for 35–40 minutes. You want a little colour and a clean lick of oak, not a thick crust. The chicken will finish cooking in the braise; transfer it straight into the hot sauce when ready.

3. 03

   Step 3WAKE UP THE CHILLIES

   While the chicken smokes, briefly toast the dried chillies in a dry frying pan over moderate heat, pressing them down for about 10–15 seconds per side. Stop as soon as they smell fruity; blackened chillies taste bitter. Cover with hot water and soak for 15 minutes, then drain and discard the soaking water.

4. 04

   Step 4BUILD THE RED STOCK

   Heat the braising oil in the Dutch oven over moderate direct heat, or on the hob. Soften the onion for 8 minutes, then add the garlic for 1 minute. Blend the softened chillies, onion, garlic, tomatoes, vinegar, oregano, cumin and cinnamon with 500 ml of the measured stock until very smooth. Blend hot ingredients only in a vented blender rated for hot liquids, or use a stick blender in a deep container. Pour into the Dutch oven, add the remaining stock and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer.

5. 05

   Step 5BRAISE UNTIL IT GIVES IN

   Nestle the smoked thighs into the hot red stock. Cover tightly and cook indirectly at 170–180°C for 60–75 minutes, turning the chicken once. Keep the liquid at a gentle simmer, not a furious boil. Start checking at 60 minutes: the thickest thighs must reach at least 75°C, but around 85°C usually gives better shredding texture. They should pull apart easily; if not, give them another 10–15 minutes.

6. 06

   Step 6REST, SHRED, STRAIN

   Lift the chicken into a tray, spoon over a little braising liquor and cover loosely. Rest for 10 minutes, then shred with two forks. Meanwhile, remove the bay leaves and strain the braising liquor through a fine sieve into a clean pan, pressing lightly. This is your big red consommé-style dunk. Taste and season with salt. If it is too thick or intense, loosen with a little boiling water. Keep covered and steaming hot.

7. 07

   Step 7MAKE THE RED DIP

   Stir 100 ml of the strained liquor through the shredded chicken: juicy, not swimming. Ladle another 150 ml into a shallow bowl and stir in 45 ml of the taco oil, plus any red chicken fat skimmed from the broth. Keep stirring between tortillas so each gets some oil and chilli colour. Reserve all remaining broth for serving.

8. 08

   Step 8CRISP THE TACOS

   Open the vents, arrange a direct charcoal zone and heat a plancha over it to roughly 200–220°C at the surface. Leave a cooler section for control. Lightly oil with the remaining 15 ml oil as needed. Working in batches, quickly dip each tortilla in the red mixture without soaking it, then lay it on the plancha. Add chicken and mozzarella to one half, fold once pliable and cook for 2–3 minutes per side, pressing gently, until crisp and the cheese has melted. Move away from the hottest patch if the chilli coating starts to catch.

9. 09

   Step 9DUNK WHILE IT CRUNCHES

   Bring the reserved broth back to a simmer and ladle into warm mugs or small bowls. Scatter onion and coriander over the tacos and into the broth. Serve immediately with lime wedges, ideally in batches straight from the plancha. Give each taco a proper dunk just before biting. Crunch first. Red drips everywhere.