Smokey Vietnamese chicken wings

The cook

1. 01

   Step 1SORT THE FIRE

   Set up a kettle BBQ for two-zone cooking, with lit charcoal banked on one side and no coals on the other. Fit the cooking grate, close the lid and stabilise at 200°C. Position the lid vent over the clear side so smoke travels across the wings.

2. 02

   Step 2SEASON THE WINGS

   Pat the wings thoroughly dry with kitchen paper. Mix the oil, lemongrass, garlic, fish sauce and black pepper in a large bowl, then toss in the wings. Work that seasoning into every nook. Keep refrigerated until the BBQ is ready.

3. 03

   Step 3SMOKE FIRST

   Add one small chunk of apple wood to the lit coals. Once the smoke is thin rather than thick and white, arrange the wings on the indirect side in a single layer. Close the lid and cook for 35–40 minutes, turning and swapping their positions halfway through. Keep the BBQ around 200°C.

4. 04

   Step 4MAKE THE CARAMEL

   While the wings cook, put the sugar and 30 ml water into a small saucepan on the hob over medium heat. Let the sugar dissolve, then bubble without stirring until amber, roughly 5–8 minutes. Swirl the pan gently if it colours unevenly. Take it off the heat as soon as it turns amber; dark brown caramel will taste bitter.

5. 05

   Step 5BUILD THE GLAZE

   Mix the remaining 30 ml water with the fish sauce. Standing back, carefully add it to the caramel a little at a time; it will spit and steam. Add the ginger and chilli, then return to a low heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring until smooth and lightly syrupy. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice. It should coat a spoon but still pour.

6. 06

   Step 6CRISP THE SKIN

   Move the wings over direct heat for 3–5 minutes, turning frequently until the skin is well browned. Stay with them: garlic and lemongrass catch quickly. Check several of the biggest wings with a probe in the thickest meat, away from the bone. They must reach at least 75°C for 30 seconds. If needed, finish cooking on the indirect side with the lid closed.

7. 07

   Step 7GET THEM STICKY

   Transfer the cooked wings to a clean bowl and toss with the glaze. Return them to the indirect side for 2–3 minutes with the lid closed, just until the coating clings and shines. Keep them away from the coals now. Sugar needs a gentle finish, not a punch-up with the flames.

8. 08

   Step 8REST AND FINISH

   Lift the wings onto a platter and rest uncovered for 5 minutes. Scatter over the peanuts, spring onions and coriander, then spoon over any glaze left in the clean tossing bowl. Serve straight away, with plenty of napkins.