Smoky applewood cheese scones

The cook

1. 01

   Step 1SORT THE FIRE

   Set up a lidded kettle BBQ for indirect cooking, with lit briquettes banked on opposite sides and a clear space in the middle. Fit the cooking grate, close the lid and stabilise at 210°C. Allow around 30 minutes for lighting and settling the fire before you start the dough.

2. 02

   Step 2GET YOUR KIT READY

   Line a sturdy metal baking tray with baking parchment rated for at least 220°C. Trim it to fit inside the tray so no edges hang towards the coals. Choose a tray that sits fully over the indirect zone with space around it for hot air to circulate.

3. 03

   Step 3RUB IN THE BUTTER

   Mix the flour, baking powder, salt, mustard powder and black pepper in a large bowl. Rub in the cold butter with your fingertips until you have rough breadcrumbs. Work quickly: cold little flecks of butter help keep the scones light.

4. 04

   Step 4BRING IT TOGETHER

   Stir in 140 g of the grated cheese and all the chives. Pour in 180 ml of the cold milk and mix with a table knife, adding the remaining 20 ml only if needed. Stop when you have a soft, slightly tacky dough with no loose flour. Don't beat it into submission.

5. 05

   Step 5SHAPE AND CUT

   Tip onto a lightly floured surface and gently bring together with your hands. Pat into a round about 3 cm thick, then cut into eight equal wedges with a sharp knife. No kneading. Transfer to the lined tray, leaving at least 3 cm between them.

6. 06

   Step 6CHEESY TOPS

   Brush the tops lightly with the finishing milk, keeping it off the cut sides where possible. Scatter over the reserved 40 g of cheese. Those exposed edges need room to rise; the tops need a proper cheesy crust.

7. 07

   Step 7BAKE OVER THE GAP

   Put the tray over the clear centre of the BBQ and close the lid. Bake at 210°C for 18–22 minutes, turning the tray through 180 degrees after 12 minutes if one side is colouring faster. They're ready when risen, deeply golden and firm at the sides, with bases that sound hollow when tapped.

8. 08

   Step 8GIVE THEM A MINUTE

   Transfer to a wire rack and leave for 10 minutes so the crumb can settle rather than turn gummy when split. Serve warm with salted butter, if using. Crisp cheese on top, melting butter inside. That's the job.