Bonfire black-treacle beef short ribs

The cook

1. 01

   Step 1SORT THE FIRE

   Set your kamado or offset for indirect cooking at 130°C, measured at grate level. On a kamado, use lumpwood charcoal, fit the heat deflector and add 2–3 small oak chunks. On an offset, establish a charcoal bed and maintain it with small, dry oak splits. Let the fire settle into clean, faint smoke before adding the beef. Allow roughly 8–10 hours for cooking, plus an hour to rest; thick ribs run to their own timetable.

2. 02

   Step 2TRIM AND SEASON

   Pat the ribs dry. Trim away tough silverskin and hard surface fat from the meat side, leaving a thin layer of soft fat. Leave the membrane on the bone side to help hold the rack together. Mix the rub ingredients, coat the ribs lightly with mustard and season evenly all over. Press the rub on rather than rubbing it into a paste.

3. 03

   Step 3BUILD THE BARK

   Put the ribs bone-side down on the indirect cooking grate, with the thickest end towards the warmer side. Close the lid and smoke at 130°C for roughly 4–6 hours. Start checking after 4 hours: the surface should be dark mahogany and the seasoning should stay put when touched gently. Internal temperature is often around 75–85°C at this point, but a properly set bark matters more than the number. Rotate the rack if one end colours faster.

4. 04

   Step 4MAKE THE GLAZE

   While the ribs smoke, pour the stout into a saucepan and simmer gently until reduced by about half, roughly 10–15 minutes. Stir in the black treacle, ketchup, cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and mustard. Simmer for another 10–15 minutes, stirring regularly, until glossy and thick enough to coat a spoon but still brushable. Take off the heat. Reserve half in a separate container for serving, keeping it away from the glazing brush. Refrigerate both portions if making well ahead, then gently reheat when needed.

5. 05

   Step 5WRAP WHEN READY

   Once the bark is set, sit the ribs bone-side down on a double layer of heavy-duty foil. Fold up the edges and pour the beef stock around the bones, not over that hard-earned bark. Seal tightly without crushing the top. Return to the barbecue at 130°C for roughly 2–3 hours, until the thickest meat reaches around 92–94°C and a probe slides in with only a little resistance. Measure away from bone.

6. 06

   Step 6GET THEM STICKY

   Carefully open the foil — hot steam bites — and lift the ribs back onto the indirect grate, bone-side down. Brush the meat with a thin layer of warm glaze. Cook uncovered for 30–60 minutes, adding a second thin coat after 15–20 minutes. Keep the heat at 130°C and the ribs away from direct flames: treacle scorches quickly. They are ready when the glaze is tacky and a probe slides into several meaty spots with barely any resistance, usually around 95–98°C. If they still feel tight, keep cooking; temperature is a guide, not the finish line.

7. 07

   Step 7REST, THEN WRECK THE NAPKINS

   Transfer the ribs to a warm tray and let the fiercest steam escape for 10 minutes. Loosely tent with foil and rest for another 50 minutes in a warm, draught-free spot. That hour helps the meat hold its juices when carved. Slice between the bones, spoon over a little of the reheated reserved glaze and serve the rest alongside. Sharp pickles and crunchy cabbage slaw make excellent company.