Brisket French dip with bone-marrow gravy

The cook

1. 01

   Step 1GET THE FIRE SORTED

   For raw brisket, settle an offset or kamado at 125°C for indirect cooking. Use a clean-burning oak fire in the offset, or lumpwood charcoal with a couple of oak chunks and the heat deflector fitted in the kamado. Allow roughly 8–11 hours for the brisket, plus 2 hours resting; the listed cook time is a planning estimate, not a promise. Using cooked brisket? Skip to the shortcut in step 5.

2. 02

   Step 2TRIM AND SEASON

   Trim hard lumps of fat and leave an even fat cap about 5 mm thick. Mix the salt, pepper and garlic granules, then coat the brisket all over. Keep it unrolled: you want bark across the surface, not seasoning buried inside a joint.

3. 03

   Step 3BUILD THE BARK

   Put the brisket on the indirect side, with the thicker end towards the stronger heat and the fat cap towards the main heat source. Shut the lid and smoke for around 4–6 hours, until the bark is dark and doesn’t rub off easily. The centre will often be around 70–75°C, but set bark is your cue to wrap.

4. 04

   Step 4WRAP AND FINISH

   Sit the brisket on a double layer of heavy-duty foil, turn up the edges and pour the 300 ml stock around it without washing the bark. Seal tightly and return to indirect heat at 125°C. Cook for another 3–5 hours, until a probe slides into the thickest part with very little resistance, usually around 93–96°C. If it still feels tight at 95°C, keep cooking. Tenderness wins.

5. 05

   Step 5REST — OR TAKE THE SHORTCUT

   For freshly smoked brisket, open the foil for 10 minutes to release fierce steam, then reseal and rest for the remainder of 2 hours in an insulated cool box, keeping the meat above 63°C; use a low oven if needed. Save the juices. For the cooked-brisket shortcut, put 1.2 kg chilled cooked brisket in a snug covered tray with the 300 ml stock and reheat indirectly at 160°C until the centre reaches 75°C, roughly 45–75 minutes depending on thickness. Rest covered for 15 minutes and save the liquid. Allow around 2 hours overall for this route, making the gravy while it rests.

6. 06

   Step 6ROAST THE MARROW

   While the freshly smoked brisket rests, raise the charcoal barbecue to 200°C and arrange an indirect zone. For the shortcut, do this once the reheated beef comes off. Place the marrow bones cut-side up in a roasting tray on the indirect side. Roast with the lid down for 20–30 minutes, until the marrow is soft, bubbling and lightly browned. Keep them away from direct flames: dripping marrow makes a spectacular waste of dinner.

7. 07

   Step 7MAKE THE DUNK

   Scoop out the hot marrow, checking carefully for bone fragments. Put 60 g marrow and its rendered fat into a saucepan over medium heat; reserve any extra for another cook. Add the shallots and soften for 8–10 minutes, then add the garlic for 1 minute. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the 1 litre stock, add the Worcestershire sauce and simmer for 15–20 minutes. You want a glossy, pourable gravy, not wallpaper paste.

8. 08

   Step 8BALANCE IT

   Skim the fat from the saved brisket juices and add a little at a time to the gravy, tasting as you go so it doesn’t turn salty. Stir in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper only as needed. Add a splash of hot water if it needs loosening. Strain for a smooth dip, or leave the shallots in for a bit of texture. Keep piping hot.

9. 09

   Step 9TOAST, STACK, DUNK

   Split the baguettes without cutting right through and butter the cut faces. Toast cut-side down directly over the coals for 30–60 seconds, checking constantly. Slice the rested brisket thinly across the grain, changing direction if the grain changes. Spread the bread with Dijon, pile in the beef and finish with pickled onions and parsley. Ladle hot marrow gravy into individual bowls and serve immediately. Dunk the end, take a bite, repeat.