Grilled jerk bream

The cook

1. 01

   Step 1GET THE FIRE STEADY

   Light a modest bed of lumpwood charcoal in your kamado. Fit a dry, barbecue-rated soapstone on its proper support above the charcoal, following the manufacturer's setup instructions. Let it warm gradually as the cooker comes up to temperature. Stabilise at 200°C with the lid closed and allow roughly 30–40 minutes overall for lighting and preheating, separate from the cooking time. Make sure both fish will fit without crowding.

2. 02

   Step 2BLITZ THE JERK

   Blend all the jerk paste ingredients into a thick, finely chopped paste, scraping down the bowl as needed. Don't add water: a wet coating steams the skin and slows the browning. Wear gloves when handling the Scotch bonnet, then wash your hands and board.

3. 03

   Step 3PREP THE BREAM

   Pat the fish thoroughly dry inside and out with kitchen paper. Make three diagonal cuts through the skin into the thickest flesh on each side, stopping short of the backbone. This gives the seasoning somewhere to sit without smothering the skin.

4. 04

   Step 4SEASON WITH INTENT

   Divide the jerk paste between the fish, working it into the cuts and cavities. Smear only a thin film over the skin, scraping any thick clumps into the cavities instead. Brush the outside with a little of the oil reserved for the fish. Cook straight away; lime doesn't need hours to get acquainted with delicate fish.

5. 05

   Step 5ONTO THE STONE

   Carefully crack the kamado lid open before lifting it fully. Using long tongs and folded kitchen paper, wipe the hot soapstone with a thin film of the remaining oil. Lay the bream on the stone with space between them. Close the lid and cook for 9–11 minutes without shuffling them about.

6. 06

   Step 6TURN, DON'T WRESTLE

   Slide a broad fish slice gently beneath each bream, using a second spatula to support it as you turn. If the skin grips the stone, give it another minute rather than tearing it free. Close the lid and cook the second side for 8–11 minutes. You want deep brown spice and crisp edges, not a black crust.

7. 07

   Step 7CHECK THE THICK PART

   Start checking the fish after about 18 minutes of total cooking. Insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest flesh just behind the head, avoiding the backbone. Aim for 63°C; the flesh should also be opaque and separate easily from the bone. Expect roughly 18–24 minutes overall, depending on the fish and the stone. If the coating darkens too quickly, finish on a raised rack over a drip tray away from direct heat.

8. 08

   Step 8REST AND GET STUCK IN

   Lift onto a warm platter and rest uncovered for 3 minutes. No tight foil tent: that traps steam and softens your hard-earned skin. Squeeze over the lime wedges and serve, warning everyone about the bones. Crunchy cabbage slaw and rice and peas make cracking company.