Monkfish dogs with samphire slaw

The cook

1. 01

   Step 1SORT THE FIRE

   Set up your kettle BBQ for two-zone cooking, with lit charcoal on one side and no charcoal on the other. Aim for roughly 220°C with the lid down. Let the cooking grate heat thoroughly, then brush it clean. Give the charcoal around 25–30 minutes to get ready; prep everything while it settles.

2. 02

   Step 2SHAPE THE DOGS

   Check the monkfish for any remaining tough, silvery membrane and trim it away — it contracts over heat and bends the fish out of shape. Cut into four long, roughly equal pieces about 3 cm thick, sized to fit your buns. Pat thoroughly dry and keep chilled until you're ready to grill.

3. 03

   Step 3KEEP THE CRUNCH

   Blanch the samphire in unsalted boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and plunge into cold water. Drain again and dry thoroughly. Cut any long stems into manageable lengths. Taste a piece before adding any salt elsewhere: this stuff brings its own seaside seasoning.

4. 04

   Step 4MIX THE TOPPINGS

   Mix the mayonnaise and sriracha in a small bowl. In another bowl, combine the samphire, finely sliced fennel and dill. Stir the lemon zest, 20 ml lemon juice and chilli crisp together separately, ready to dress the slaw just before serving. Keeping them apart now means more crunch later.

5. 05

   Step 5GET SOME COLOUR

   Coat the monkfish with the rapeseed oil and season lightly with salt and black pepper. Lay across the hot grate over direct heat. Grill for 8–12 minutes in total, turning every 2–3 minutes once the fish releases cleanly. Don't wrestle it off the bars — give the crust time to form.

6. 06

   Step 6CHECK AND REST

   If the outside has good colour before the middle is cooked, move the fish to the charcoal-free side and close the lid to finish gently. Check the thickest part with a probe thermometer: aim for 63°C, with opaque flesh that separates easily. Transfer to a warm plate and rest for 3 minutes.

7. 07

   Step 7TOAST AND TOSS

   While the fish rests, lightly butter the cut faces of the buns. Toast cut-side down over the cooler edge of the fire for 30–60 seconds, watching closely because brioche catches fast. Toss the slaw with its lemon and chilli crisp dressing.

8. 08

   Step 8PILE IT IN

   Spread a little chilli mayo inside each bun, add a modest bed of slaw and tuck in a piece of monkfish. Finish with more slaw, the sliced pickles and the remaining chilli mayo. Serve straight away, with any extra slaw alongside and plenty of napkins.